Puerto Natales, Chile, is another town driven by the Tourism economic engine. This is the jumping off point for touring, hiking, etc. for the Torres del Paine National Park. Gorgeous, dynamic, mountain peaks, stunning lakes, and the chance to see the America's largest wild cat, the puma (which we didn't glimpse).
Arrived here, 12 Jan, after a 3 hour+ bus ride from Punta Arenas. Saw rheas (like an emu or an ostrich) (large ones known as Nandu (further north are the smaller ones called Choike) and many guanaco, on the ride up. Guanaco are one of the 4 native camelids to the Americas. Llamas (the largest), and Alpacas (the second smallest) are domesticated breeds. The Guanaco, smaller than a llama, and the Vicuna (the smallest camelid) are both wild. Guanacos are the primary prey of the Puma (which can grow to 250 lbs). Had a good dinner, including guanaco stew at El Bote on the main drag in Puerto Natales.
Had a full day Torres del Paine park tour. Lots of Miradors (Scenic vistas). Low cloud cover, but an ever present rainbow, kept us from seeing the Torres, beautiful mountains and glaciers, lakes an rivers, cascades, wildlife including many Guanaco (smaller than the domesticated llama), rhea (Nandu, pronounce Yandoo), many Andean Condors, saw 2 gray fox kits, then their mother. Believe it or not, there are many Flamingos feeding on a type of shrimp in some of the lakes! Guide ((W/ Patagonia Planet,) Gabriella, and race car driver, Rodrigo (who also was a photo enthusiast with a camera sporting an enormous lens), kept us well informed. Finished loop tour with an excursion to the Cueva del Milodon, where fossilized giant sloth bones of Mylodon Darwinii were discovered, the cave was massive! Dinner at mesita grande rest. Good salad, pizza and beer.
Next day we had a nearly private guided hike from Porteria Sarmiento, Sarmiento lake over to Lago Amarga, and the Porteria there. Hiked through puma country, the guanaco graveyard, and I was nervous! Good side hike to a small cave with cave drawings, cool. Lunch at the rio Paine cascada. Had a mediocre sushi dinner and salmon sashimi, with a few rounds of Calafate (local blueberries) Pisco Sours.
